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To find your 4 letter broadcast code, you will need to locate the ECM box first.
On F-bodies, it is located under the hood, on the passenger side, near the firewall. (black box)
You will need a ratchet, small extension and a 10mm socket to remove two bolts holding it in place
Once those are removed, pull out the ECM assembly and take a look at its label. On the top right corner, there should be a four letter code. (as shown in this picture)
Some newer replacement/remanufactured ECMs do not have this code on the label. In that case, you will need to locate a plastic cover on the ECM and remove the small screws holding it in place.
Once the cover is removed, you will see a blue module as shown in this picture:
You will be able to see the code through one of the holes in the module.
Common broadcast codes:
1992-1993 Y-body
M6, 3.45 gear ratio - BAFL
1993 F-body A4, 2.73 gear ratio, Z-rated tires - BDZK, BPBD
1993 F-body A4, 2.73 gear ratio, regular tires - BDZJ
1993 F-body A4, 3.23 gear ratio, Z-rated tires - BDZL
1993 F-body M6, 3.23 gear ratio, Z-rated tires - BDLD
The purpose of this question is to decide how much timing to retard through programming if you do not have a retard box.
Generally, I recommend running an ignition such as MSD Digital 6 and let it retard the timing for you, but if you do not have one, I can retard it through programming.
This will reduce your naturally aspirated horsepower some, depending on what size shot you are running.
For a 100 HP shot, I normally retard 2 degrees (1 degree per 50 HP) from stock timing -- roughly a 10 RWHP loss when you are naturally aspirated. This figure may be greater or smaller, depending on the specific setup.
Please specify in the comments box below if you have an ignition retard box.
This option allows you to set your rev limiter at any setting you desire.
Just delete "tuner decides" and write in your desired RPM!
If you leave "tuner decides" on, I will decide a rev limiter setting based on the internal engine modifications you specified and my previous experience with that particular setup.
For LT1 stock or bolt-on cars, I normally set it at 6000 RPM (stock is 5886 RPM for LT1 F-body) with power tuning. If you want it left stock, write in "stock".
Tip: Setting a rev limiter a little on the high side does not mean you have to rev your car to that RPM. It simply gives you a little more room in order to avoid hitting the rev limiter if you are racing.
If you have an automatic, you have to take into account the fact that automatics do not always shift at the exact same RPM. Factors such as temperature, slippage and others will sometimes cause it to shift quicker or slower, in which case if for example you want it to shift at 6300 RPM, it is a good idea to set the rev limiter at 6600.
For stock or bolt-on cars, I leave the shift points stock in many cases.
For advanced modification cars, if you leave "tuner decides" on, I will decide based on my previous experience with that particular setup.
If you want to set your own shift points, you can either indicate it by adding RPM to stock shift points (for example, stock shift points are at 5750 and you want your new shift points at 6000 RPM. Write in +250), or by adding MPH (+1, +2, etc).
If you don't want ALL shift points changed with the same setting, please indicate separate settings for each gear below in the comments box.
